![]() The high 40amp surprised me, although I suspect they would reduce very quickly as time progressed, possibly with an increase in voltage, as I could not get 32v. Engine revs around 2000rpm (very close to max).īattery monitor was around 31.4v (could not see both at same time), indicated charge amps in = 40. Voltages taken on mooring after disconnection of shore power / charger (so batteries fully charged). Measured voltage of alternator output to –ve = 31.4v It was supplied with engine (Perkins) 1 year and 49 weeks ago (engine has 2 year warranty, not sure if this covers alternator, I suspect not!!.). A possibility is an insulation fault in the alternator rotor aggravated by centrifugal force. I think a regulator fault unlikely because the voltage is ok in normal use. I would like to know the alternator type, a photo would help. Ok, assuming 32V to be correct, measure the voltage from alt output to -ve, and warning light (D+) to -ve. Mine you, ive also never seen it got over about 8 amps eather! As we dont have any ingnition switch, we also have a seperate togle switch to excite the alternator, However, in practice, the alternator acctally retains enought magnatisum to self-excite without ever switching on this switch anyway!Ĭo-incently, we also have a 24v system, and i dont think ive ever seen it go over about 28volts. Usally this switching is done by the ignition switch/barrel. I beleave all alternators have a switch inline with the lamp in the exciter circuit, without it, the alternator would permantly draw current. Could this affect / damage the alternator. Never been that sure about it's installation, but that is how it is. under boat warranty, when I established during installation on house battery bank that the alternator was not working. Switch and light installed by local marine electrical co. But normally switch is on all the time engine is running (I need the switch to turn off the lamp when engine is not running). ![]() If I turn the switch off the alternator continues to charge, but when engine revs reduce so not sufficient to produce a charge, it needs exiting again, so switch has to be turned on……. In order to turn the alternator on I have a switch which activates a lamp, to excite the alternator. I have (I think) an unusual arrangement in that I can turn off the alternator charge. It was this action that prompted me to look for a reason why it cut out, when I realised I had 32v input. I will check battery voltage with my meter over the weekend, but pretty sure battery monitor is correct, in that on 2 instances my Victron combi inverter has cut out (I think it is protected at 32v), when running the engine at high revs and with batteries fully charged. I suggest that you beg steal or borrow a decent meter and check the voltage at the battery with that and see how it compares. However, the 5A calls the 32V a liar! MOST likely in my opinion is that the 32V is an incorrect reading.
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